Trashiyangtse - Eastern Gem of Bhutan

Hidden in the north-east corner of Bhutan lies one of the most stunning valleys in the Himalayan Kingdom of BhutanAs many travellers fondly recount, Trashiyangtse is often upheld as their favourite destination in eastern Bhutan. Both intrigued and drawn by the shower of praise given to this remote valley and its warm people, my unforgettable journey to this cloistered locale showed me that the glowing reviews were entirely well deserved, if not more.

THE MAGICAL VALLEY OF TRASHIYANGSTE

The small, picturesque valley of Trashiyangtse is a hidden gem that very few tourists take the time to visit. Indeed, it is the least visited dzongkhag (district) in the country, and perhaps Bhutan’s best-kept secret. The landscape is visually stunning, the peaceful valley enchanting, and the local people are warm and friendly. 

A site that takes your breath away before you reach the main town is the old dzong (fortress), also known as Trashiyangtse Dzong, or the fortress of auspicious fortune, which lies high on a ridge just on the outskirts of the main valley. It is considered to be one of the oldest dzongs in Bhutan with its history dating back to the 9th century. A local legend recounts that the famous terton (treasure revealer), Pema Lingpa, built the dzong in the 15th century upon the ruins of the earlier Dongdi Dzong in order to subdue the demons that lived there. In earlier times, the dzong played an essential role in defending Bhutan from incursions emanating from neighbouring mountain ranges.

With an altitude ranging from 1,750 to 1,880 metres, Trashiyangtse is one of the newest districts in Bhutan. Bordering India to its east and Tibet to its north, it was from here that an ancient trading route passed through Bhutan. The town itself is located at the headwaters of Kulong Chhu, with the roaring river passing through it as it flows further south. Towering above the valley is the impressive new dzong of Trashiyangtse. Inaugurated in 1992 when the district was created, the new dzong now serves as the administrative headquarters for the district, taking over this role from the old dzong which now houses the local monastic body.

A visually striking site lower in the valley is the famous Chorten Kora. Shrouded in both mystique and spirituality, it is well worth a visit. The stupa in Trashiyangtse was completed in 1740. Its bright gleaming walls reflect the warm sunshine, which is striking against the azure turquoise blue of the Himalayan sky.

Historical accounts of the chorten tell the story of Lama Ngawang Loday who brought a small carved model made from a radish of the auspicious Boudhanath stupa in Nepal. Having been deeply moved by the famous stupa, he built a similar model at this site in memory of his late uncle. The chorten was also built to subdue the evil spirits that lived in this area and to provide a pilgrimage site for those who could not make the long journey to the original stupa in Kathmandu. However, as the radish shrank on the long return journey, the story recounts that the replicated structure was not proportionate to the original it was modelled after. Every year, two koras (circumambulation where pilgrims generate positive merit by circling the chorten) take place at Chorten Kora. One of them draws people from all over eastern Bhutan who make the long journey to generate merit, especially through the spiritual power endowed and transmitted by the large thongdrol (large thangkha with Buddhist images, symbols and iconography), unfurled only once a year on this auspicious day.

Local legend has it that a teenage girl, also a dakini (female deity or spirit) and Tawang princess from neighbouring Arunachal Pradesh, sacrificed herself to be entombed inside the chorten while meditating, thereby pacifying a local demon and bringing peace to the valley. Other stories recount that she was sealed alive in the chorten of her own free as an offering from the Dakpa people of Tawang. Both traditional and modern culture pays homage to this story in different ways. The former is represented by the second kora, which takes place on the 15th day of the first lunar month, attracting pilgrims from the Dakpa valley who travel for days across the rugged mountains to commemorate the noble death of the princess. The latter interpretation is depicted by a famous Bhutanese movie named after the chorten, which dramatically recounts the story of the legend.

A popular local story yet tells a slightly different version that is perhaps more Shakespearean in nature. It is said that the love-stricken teenage princess was irreconcilable with grief from a broken heart over a young man, which led her to sacrifice herself as a living relic within the chorten. Perhaps we will never know the true heart-rending story of the princess entombed in the chorten, and like the many deep mysteries of ancient Egypt, it will continue to remain a tragic secret.

A HEARTLAND FOR BHUTANESE ARTS AND WILDLIFE

Trashiyangtse is renowned for its arts and handicrafts, especially woodworking and paper-making. The famous Institute for Zorig Chusum, or the Institute of the Thirteen Arts and Crafts, is located high up on a mountain ridge overlooking the valley. This is a great place to learn about, observe and appreciate the delicacy, intricacy and the artisanry required to make Bhutanese handicrafts such as Buddhist statues, jewellery, textiles, wooden crafts, handmade paper and thangkas, for example. Opened in 1997, the institute provides important avenues for vocational training for Bhutanese artists and artisans.

Especially interesting is the technique and artisanry involved in making the exquisite lacquer wooden bowls, known as dhapa. Used during religious festivals, rituals and traditional meals, these bowls are lovingly crafted by master artisans called shagzopas who are especially trained in this craft. The material for the bowls is select pieces of wood, which undergo a painstakingly complex process before being spun on pedal lathes. The most exquisite bowls are handed down over generations as family heirlooms and can fetch upwards of several hundred dollars.

North of Trashiyangtse lies the Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary, covering an area of 1,545 square kilometres and home to approximately 100 species of animals, including endangered species such as the snow leopard, Royal Bengal tiger and the red panda. The sanctuary is renowned for its natural beauty, as well as for being an important winter habitat of black-necked cranes about 150 of which arrive here from Tibet around mid-November. It is also a paradise for 130 species of butterflies (with another 120 expected to inhabit the area), and is the only place where the state butterfly, Ludlow’s Bhutan Swallowtail, is found. The road to Bumdeling is rough, so allow enough time in your itinerary to make it to this biodiversity-hot spot.

BHUTAN - TRASHIYANGTSE 

A tourist destination well off the beaten path makes a visit to Trashiyangtse extremely special. Travellers can expect the place almost to themselves without the tourist crowds that one might encounter at other popular sites and tshechu.   At a time when tourist numbers are increasing around the world and in Bhutan, such secluded oases are warmly welcomed by travellers who want a unique and authentic experience. It is advisable to visit soon, however, before Bhutan’s best-kept travel secret gets out. Since my trip in February 2017, the new domestic airport at Yonphula near the town of Trashigang is in full operation, and this will ease the journey greatly, cutting down the time to travel by road significantly. While it took me six days to get to Trashiyangtse and back, a flight from Paro will cut the journey down to less than a day in one direction.

Another reason to make this trip now is the new sustainable development fee waiver, a three-year effort of the Royal Government of Bhutan which began in late 2017 to promote tourism to the less travelled eastern regions of Bhutan. The waiver of the daily tariff translates into a lower daily tourist rate. Like no other destination in Bhutan, this region is profoundly beautiful with many scenic, cultural, spiritual and natural delights to make your spirits soar. Enchanting Trashiyangtse should be on the top of the list of must-see destinations in Bhutan